Stop, Here is the Empire of Death - Catacombes
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It’s a long way down lots of uneven stone or cement steps. They’re sometimes steep, and it’s a little dark. After going down, down, down, you wonder, how far down are we? Where’s the attraction? Not really thinking about it, I figured we would go down a flight or two, but it feels like we’re nearing the center of the earth. Finally, we reach the “attraction,” the bones, and more bones, and more bones. Piled high, piled wide, piled by type or piled without method. As we travel through the tunnel these remnants of generations past are on either side of us, stacked in alcoves or simply against walls. Water drips and we need to hop over puddles. I get water dripped on my head. Written in stone are short pieces of prose I couldn’t read, but I’m sure they echo the title of this review, “Stop, Here is the Empire of Death,” “Arrete, c’este ici l’Empire de la Mort” which was engraved over the entrance to the catacombes.
There are supposedly six million skulls and skeletons in 1,000 yards of tunnels, though it seems like much more. Neverending. In 1785 skeletons from various overcrowded cemeteries were transported to this location, an abandoned quarry. Now they are available for everyone to see and apparently, we want to. I had heard about these catacombes where one could reach out and touch bones among the bones of millions of people (if a guard isn’t around). At the time I fancied myself interested in all things macabre. This, I think, fit the criteria.
The sight is in the 14th Arrondissement at 1 place Denfert-Rochereau. Entry is 19ff (about $3.50) and the whole excursion will take about an hour, excluding the time you spend afterwards sitting at a cafe. Postcards are for sale as you enter, but not as you leave. Leave your stilletos and even platforms at your hotel and be sure to hit a restroom before you begin your descent. I was six months pregnant when I went down into the bowels of Paris, and while I was perfectly up for the task, it’s a long way out if you should suddenly need to leave.
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