European vacations

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Bella Palermo - Palermo The center of Palermo is Piazza Castelnuovo and Piazza Ruggero Settimo all in one big plaza in the center of the o...

If you are crazy enough to travel to Palermo (Sicily) during the summer months and share an Alitalia flight with dozens of restless Italian bambini, well, you will probably experience what I experienced a few weeks ago. Here it is…

Reaching Palermo

Palermo, the capital of Sicily (pop. 730,000) has a fairly modern international airport, Punta Raisi, recently renamed “Falcone and Borsellino” after the two heroic law enforcement agents recently liquidated by the Mafia. If you fly from the US, you will probably connect through Rome. From Fiumicino, there is a flight every hour to Palermo. Unless you have at least two hours of layover (I had almost three), you will probably lose your luggage, as it happened to me and many other travelers. The employees in the Lost Baggage office work in a relaxed fashion, and manage to diffuse, with their humor, a tense situation which cannot be unfamiliar to them. An angry Indian man wanted to talk to “the manager” to complain. The man behind the counter laughed at him and told him to take it easy. A sweaty Frenchman elbowed me aside, insisting he was there before me. He muttered in French but nobody understood him. He got frustrated and even sweatier. An Italian-American lady complained loudly about how bad Sicily is. The office supervisor rightly noted that the luggage got lost in Rome. He added, humorously, that Rome handles political matters with the same efficiency with which it transfers luggage. Eventually the next flight arrived, just when I had filled out my form. My suitcase was there, and the office supervisor smiled and took the time to chat with me: “See, no reason to get tense. All these foreigners get so upset! We Italians survive by taking everything in stride”. I shook his hand and looked for a taxi.

The airport is about 40 Km from the city center. The pre-arranged cost (ask before you get in!) for a taxi ride is about $50 one way. There are cheaper alternatives (bus), which I was too tired to explore after 16 hours on the road and a sleepless night.

Location, Geography and Climate

Palermo is nestled between two massive hills in a scenic bay on the Northern coast of Sicily. It is close to the West end of the island and not too far from the South Coast, with its magnificent Greek ruins in Agrigento, Segesta and Selinunte. It is, however, many hours away from the main tourist area of the island (Siracusa, Taormina). One needs at least a couple of weeks to see the whole island, which is the largest in the Mediterranean. On this trip (6 nights), I limited myself to Palermo. The climate in the summer is hot and humid. Every day of the week I was there the sun was shining and the temperature was above 100 F, except the last night when it unexpectedly dropped to a pleasant 80 F. Needless to say, long walks in such weather are problematic. The best time to go depends on your taste. Most people prefer September and April. Sicily is blessed by warm weather, but there can be a lot of rain in the winter, when average temperatures dip into the 50s.

History

A history of Sicily would require a multi-volume book. I need to mention the basics because Palermo’s rich history is actually the key to its varied artistic treasures. The first invasions of Sicily were by the Phoenicians (around 1,000 B.C.), but the Greeks were the first to leave tangible (and spectacular) traces of their presence (from 8th century B.C. on). For at least two centuries Sicily was torn by wars between the Romans and the Carthaginians (409-210 B.C.). The local warlords allied themselves at times with Rome, at times with the Africans, in an early show of Italian opportunism. Eventually, as all Italian schoolchildren learn in school, the Romans, at times on the brink of capitulation, won some key battles and executed a massive expedition against Carthage, which was totally erased from the face of the earth. From then on, Sicily was a Roman colony. When the Roman Empire fell in the 5th century A.D., Sicily was conquered by the Germanic barbarian tribes, only to be rescued by the Eastern arm of the Roman Empire, Byzantium (535 A.D.). The Byzantines made of Palermo a splendid back-up capital of their empire (when their capital was under Arab attack). The Arabs then took over most of the island (9th century) and stayed for 2 centuries, building splendid palaces and mosques. In the 11th century the Normans, from Northern France, descended and took over, replacing much of the Islamic palaces with Christian churches. The Hohenstaufens, monarchs of the Holy Roman Empire ruled the island next, and their emperor Frederick II became the most beloved ruler of Sicily. Condemned as the Antichrist by the Pope, this brilliant intellectual and statesman, who is buried in the Palermo Cathedral, is referred to by the Sicilians as “our Frederick”. Soon the Pope began to plot the demise of the Hohenstaufens and, as the Church usually did in those days, succeeded. The Pope summoned the French, and Charles D’Anjou obliged, capturing Frederick’s young grandson and throne heir Conradin, beheading him in the public square and installing a French regime on the island. The people of Palermo eventually rebelled against the hated French, drove them from the island in 1282 and invited the Spanish to take over! Centuries of Spanish domination followed. The Spanish administration was sleazy and corrupt. The Sicilian nobles adapted quite well to the intrigue of the Aragon court and the general disarray of its administration, but were finally “rescued” in the 19th century, when a band of desperadoes under Italian national hero Giuseppe Garibaldi swept the island (1860) and delivered it to the king of Piedmont, as the first step toward Italian nationhood. Traveling from “Austrian” Turin to “Spanish” Palermo is like changing continent. Now 150 years old, Italy is united geographically, but not in spirit. In Piedmont one encounters effective administration, order, cleanliness and courtesy, in Sicily one still finds the proverbial corruption, unemployment, crime and filth. But, due to its unique history, filthy, run-down Palermo is also a splendid, unforgettable city.

Atmosphere

I don’t think Palermo can be love at first sight. It is an acquired taste. I found myself loving it more and more each day. Its sun-drenched beaches, lined with palm trees, its luxurious gardens full of tropical fruits, the immense magnolia trees…they all convey to the city a North-African look. On the first day, hallucinating under the scorching sun, I had the strange feeling of being in Algiers. In many areas of the city the stench is violent: fish, open sewers…or simply piles of garbage left to rot for days under the merciless sun. This is not a sanitized seaside panorama like Southern Florida. Parts of the city are historic and beautiful, others look ravaged and devastated. An area of the beach - I was told - still hosts a few hundred tons of ruins from WWII, when Palermo was devastated by the Americans. The wreckage was bulldozed and some of it still stands there after 60 years. Palermo, with its colors, its flora, its stench and fruity aromas, its scorching sun, will immediately hit your senses, creating alternating feelings of wonder and disgust. Palermo is life itself, with its splendor and its detritus. It will not leave you indifferent. The challenge is to take it all in, without judging it.

Things to See

Every tour book has a list of sights. I will limit myself to what I saw and liked. On the first day, due to the heat, I took - through my hotel (4 star San Paolo Palace) - a 4h, $25 guided tour of the city. After looking at the splendid Cathedral and the extravagant, gigantic Fontana Pretoria (with its 664 statues) from the outside (!), we visited the marvelous Royal Palace, built by the Arabs in the 9th century, and “re-done” by each successive wave of invaders. We were told we needed to pay another 6 Euro to see the Palatine Chapel, built by the Normans in 1140. The chapel is splendid and worth the money. Elements of Arabic and Norman architecture blend with stunning Byzantine mosaic to render this church one of the true jewels of Palermo. The Cloisters of San Giovanni degli Eremiti were next. Another 6 Euro, announced the guide. I finally realized the tour was a scam. But the foreign tourists, perhaps more naive than I was, were having a good time.

Mercifully for us, the next 6 Euro-stop was sabotaged by a Toyota Corolla which was parked sideways on a narrow road: our bus could not go through, creating a huge, loud traffic jam. The driver simply honked for 5 minutes, attracting a group of curious on-lookers. Influenced by 20+ years of action-oriented American life, I suggested to go down and just move the car to the side. How much can a Toyota Corolla weigh? But that was not to be. “We must call the police” announced the driver. “Gimme a break! - I said- this is Sicily…don’t they have Mafia to fight?” We simply stood there for at least 15 minutes before someone could find a policeman. Finally the young man arrived: young, handsome, sporting the typical 2-day beard and wearing a very elegant shiny uniform, with expensive brand new boots. His main concern was to look cool in front of the women. Like all Italians do these days, he pulled out his “telefonino”. “What the hell is he doing? Does he need to check with Rome to move a car?” I asked. He spoke on the phone forever - certainly the Mafia could wait. Finally the verdict from Rome came: he placed a ticket on the car and yes, we could move it. While the driver and the spiffy policeman looked on with dignified indifference, five of us lifted the Corolla and we were finally on our way. Perhaps frustrated by the loss of time, the guide announced we had 30 minutes to shop in the main square before being brought back to the hotel. The tour ended up being 2.5 hours only and costing me actually over $40 (and I had to lift an automobile to get back). The moral of the story: try to be independent if you travel to Palermo!

La Zisa (El’Aziz) is a unique Norman-Arab summer residence (1180 A.D.), surrounded by huge gardens. The Arabs had already invented a form of air-conditioning (water circulation from the ground up), and this is still visible in the palace. The mosaics were still under restoration when I visited. The Archaelogical Museums is one of Italy’s most important. The Greek and Etruscan collections are impressive. Palermo has two magnificent theaters, the Teatro Massimo and the Politeama. They can be visited at suitable times. An interesting escape from the art world is constituted by the open market at the Vucciria, an interesting way to experience the colors, smells and sounds of Palermo’s people and watch the locals go about their daily business. It is a real zoo!

Perhaps the highlight of the trip was a visit to Monreale, a hilly suburb only 10 Km from the city. There, perched on a hill from which a splendid view of the city can be enjoyed, stand the Cathedral and Cloisters of Monreale, an architectural masterpiece blending elements of Arabic and Byzantine art. If the huge church is impressive from the outside, the interior leaves the visitor astounded: there are over 60,000 sq. ft of shimmering mosaics, narrating Biblical stories. These were laid out in 1182. Virtually the whole Church is covered with the mosaics and the effect is overwhelming. I was lucky enough to be able to hear a concert in the Cathedral. The local symphony orchestra played three Verdi overtures and, surprisingly, a Brahms symphony. The simple, majestic lines of the interior, coupled with the candlelight shining on the golden mosaic and Verdi’s passionate notes created an effect that is hard to describe. One can easily forgive Palermo for his filth and its stench, on a surreal night like this. Italy at its best, and easily the most beautiful church I have ever seen in my life.

If one is in the mood for yet another Church, after the Cathedral of Palermo, the Palatine Chapel and Monreale, I recommend the Norman church of San Cataldo (1154). Because it was built mostly by Arab masons, the church combines Arabic and Romanesque elements, for a unique blend that, I believe, one finds only in Sicily. A trip to Palermo is not complete without driving up to Mt. Pellegrino (1,800 ft), from which the most beautiful views of the bay of Palermo can be enjoyed. It houses also the shrine of Santa Rosalia, the patron saint of the city. On the top on the mountain, the shrine is housed within a cave were the hermit saint lived her whole life, in solitude. Here one can witness the peculiar devotion that Italian Catholics have for their saints. One can watch the locals climb up the stairs to the cave on their knees, and then kiss the grave of the patron, humbly asking her to intercede with God about a personal matter… This grotesque humiliation, which smacks of pre-biblical paganism and idolatry, never ceases to amaze me and it is part of what makes Italy intriguing and even charming. On the way down I was entertained by a horde of beggars, one of which was multitasking (begging and speaking on his cell phone). If America is the only country where the poor are fat, Italy may be the only country where beggars have their own “telefonino”!

Finally, one can rest in Palermo by visiting one of the many public gardens, usually surrounding luxurious villas. I suggest Villa Giulia, next to the botanical gardens, and Villa Igiea, by the sea. A visit to the botanical gardens cannot but remind the visitor that Sicily is not only Italy, but a slice of Africa as well.

Food and Drinks

The cuisine of Sicily is a complex blend that betrays its complex history. From African couscous to Greek-like eggplant dishes, everything reminds the visitor of another place. If you love fish and do not fear food poisoning, Palermo is the place! Since I do not eat fish, I cannot make recommendations here. My favorite specialties, available next to the traditional Italian staples, are: Caponata (a dish of eggplant, olives, peppers, tomatoes and capers); Falso Magro (veal stuffed with cold cuts and cheese, roasted and braised); Spaghetti alla Norma (sauce of tomatoes and eggplant - you got it, the Sicilians adore eggplant!); Arancini (rice dumplings stuffed with cheese and peas); Sfincioni (Cheese with oil, pepper and tomatoes) and Ncancarnanca’ (a cheese-based soup). If you are adventurous, try Pane Ca’ Meusa (sandwich with grilled thinly-sliced spleen and lungs), or Vope all’Agrodolce (sardines marinated in onion, vinegar and honey).

The desserts are sublime: from the world-famous Cannoli alla Siciliana to the rich cheese/marzipan cake “Cassata Siciliana” to marzipan fruits (Frutti di Marturana), sweets in Palermo are a feast for the eye and for the palate. Some desserts are downright bizarre (like ice cream served in open bread rolls). Sicilian fruit is glorious: one can find a variety of tropical products. My favorites are the juicy dark red blood oranges. Finally, prices are typical of the average Western city, at least downtown. In a suburban tiny panetteria, where I ended up by chance at lunch time, a large sandwich with fresh bread (made on the premises) and local prosciutto was just 1 Euro, which is great food for the body and also for thought. A large loaf of fresh, delicious bread in a panetteria costs only 30 cents, simply because it is baked where it is sold. In my Connecticut town, a similar loaf generates $4 of GDP because it comes from the Bronx. Although apparently more efficient and generating more wealth on paper, our food distribution system, compared with that of an old-fashioned Sicilian suburb, is patently absurd.

Sicily produces excellent wines with a very high alcohol content (typically 14-15%). A moderately priced, pleasant one is the Corvo di Salaparuta, which comes both in red and white, but the range of choices is truly immense, as Sicily is one of the main wine-producing regions of Italy. The liquor Marsala, used in famous dishes like Veal Marsala, originates from the town bearing the same name, not too far from Palermo.

And Now for the Negatives

After heaping tons of praise on Palermo, I have to warn demanding tourists that Palermo has, indeed, many flaws, and especially in a country which offers so much like Italy, these flaws have to be taken into consideration if one has limited time. Palermo is more run-down, dirtier, more chaotic than any other Italian big city. Although modern, its establishments leave to be desired. A four-star hotel is barely acceptable to someone like me, who is happy with a three-star in Turin, where everything is clean and courtesy and civility rule. Service is generally slow, incompetent and indifferent at best. Downright rudeness is often experienced. Taxi drivers compare, in manners and finesse, with NYC drivers, but are more expensive. All establishments serving food or drinks must now have, by federal law, restrooms. However, the law does not say that the bathroom have to be operational, that there has to be toilet paper or paper for drying hands. Indeed, Italy is not Germany and nowhere is this more evident than in Palermo. Only in the chic downtown cafes have I found impeccable bathrooms. Everywhere else, it is touch and go. The city is noisy. My hotel was near the beach and close to an outside disco, where loud hip-hop music played every night till 2 or 3 a.m. It was basically impossible to exclude the noise. You may need earplugs to sleep in Palermo (like in much of Italy). Crime is rampant in Palermo. Like in most of Italy, the worst that can happen to you is to fall prey to a pickpocket. It is always best not to trust anyone who offers you anything. Beggars and gypsies and all types of panhandlers abound in Palermo. I was accosted by a pretty young woman who just asked me: “Scusi, ce l’ha un euro?” To my amazement, I handed a euro to her and she thanked me.

Conclusion

I have seen much of Italy, and it was inexcusable never having been to Palermo. The city is worth a visit, especially if you love art and history. But, if one has two weeks to spend in Italy, Palermo may not be the right place to visit, at least for the average tourist. Within Sicily, Taormina, with its stunning cliffs, its Greek theater and its splendid gardens is always a more popular destinations, at least for Americans.

The more sophisticated, prepared traveler who desires a glimpse at the incredible cultural and artistic panorama which Italy can offer, may well want to start in Turin, the old capital of the kingdom, drive through rural Tuscany and Umbria, visit the Amalfi coast with its splendors, and end up right here in Palermo, where one can eat couscous, drink dark red Sicilian orange juice, smell the zagare and the gardenias, look at the Mediterranean under a palm tree, and ponder about the surreal place where Europe meets Africa amidst a blend of French, German, Spanish, Roman, Byzantine and Arabic culture and art.

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